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Capillary matting versus self-watering trays

The short answer

Self-watering wicking trays are the cheaper and simpler answer for standard cell trays and seedlings. Capillary matting is the better answer for a whole bench of assorted pots, because one wet mat waters everything sitting on it regardless of pot size. Both work by the same principle: water rises into the media from below, so the surface stays dry, which is hostile to damping-off fungi and fungus gnats.

Shared benefit
A dry media surface
Matting suits
Mixed pots on a whole bench
Wicking trays suit
Standard cell trays
Pot contact
Matting needs a flat pot base

Researched from published specifications and verified owner reviews · Updated 2026-08-16

Overhead watering does three unhelpful things in a propagation house: it keeps the media surface wet, it knocks small seed about, and it splashes soil-borne pathogens onto leaves. Watering from below avoids all three, and it also waters more evenly than any hand can.

The two products here do the same job at different scales.

The comparison

Figure 1. Capillary matting against wicking trays · 7 rows
Figure 1. Capillary matting against wicking trays
MeasureCapillary mattingSelf-watering trays
Waters mixed pot sizes Yes, anything sitting on it No, fits its own cells
Bench area covered A whole bench from one roll One tray each
Cost to start Higher Low
Needs a level surface Yes, critically Less so
Algae growth Real on a lit mat Lower, water is enclosed
Cleaning between crops Wash or replace the mat Wash the tray
Works with pots with no drainage No Not applicable
Researched general information rather than professional advice.

Matting only works if the bench is level

Capillary matting relies on water spreading through the fabric and being drawn up through the drainage holes of whatever sits on it. On a bench with any fall, water collects at the low end and the high end dries out, and the crop tells you exactly where the slope is. Level the bench before laying Kapmat Capillary Matting, 72 in x 5 yd ($148.78), and check the pots make firm contact, since a pot with a raised rim on its base never touches the mat at all.

The other thing matting needs is a reservoir arrangement, either a shallow tray under one end or a drip line keeping the mat damp. A mat that is merely wetted each morning dries by afternoon in a bright house and the whole advantage is lost.

Wicking trays are the low-effort version

A set of Hanaoyo Self-Watering Seed Starter Trays, 96 Cell, 2-Pack ($12.49) does the same thing for a standard cell tray with no levelling, no reservoir plumbing and no algae to scrub. You fill the lower chamber, the wick keeps the media damp, and the surface stays dry. For a home greenhouse raising a few hundred seedlings a year this is the answer, and the cost difference is substantial.

The limitation is that they suit their own cells. A bench of assorted 9 cm pots, recovered houseplants and a few grow bags is not a job for wicking trays.

Note

Sub-irrigation is the single best defence against fungus gnats

Fungus gnats lay in the top layer of wet media. Keep that top layer dry and the life cycle breaks, which is why watering from below reduces them so sharply. Combine it with yellow sticky traps as a monitoring tool and you will usually see the population fall before it ever becomes a problem.

Algae, and why it appears

A permanently damp mat under bright light grows algae, which is unsightly, slippery and a food source for fungus gnats. It is a light problem rather than a water problem: shading the mat where pots do not cover it, or covering it with a perforated liner, largely prevents it. Replacing the mat between seasons is cheap enough that it is not worth fighting a badly colonised one.

The decision, summarised

  • Standard 1020 cell trays, home scale: wicking trays, and spend the difference on lights.
  • A whole bench of assorted pot sizes: capillary matting, on a level bench.
  • Away for a weekend in spring: either, and both beat asking a neighbour to water.
  • Recurrent damping-off or fungus gnats: switch to bottom watering before buying any treatment.
  • Bench that cannot be levelled: wicking trays, because matting will not water evenly.

Watering from below

Bench scale and tray scale, and the monitoring tool that tells you it is working.

Related on this site

Common questions

4 answers

+ Does bottom watering really prevent damping-off?

It removes one of the main conditions the pathogens need, which is a persistently wet media surface, and in practice it makes a large difference. It is not a guarantee on its own. Clean trays, air movement across the seedlings, sowing at a sensible density and not overwatering all contribute, and damping-off in a crowded, still, wet tray will find a way regardless of how the water arrives.

+ How often do you top up capillary matting?

It depends on the light and the crop, but the mat should never dry out completely, because a dried mat is difficult to rewet evenly and the pots come off the water supply without you noticing. Most growers run a reservoir at one end or a drip line along the mat rather than topping up by hand. Check it daily in bright weather.

+ Will pots take up too much water from a mat?

Capillary action is self-limiting, so a pot draws up until the media is at field capacity and then stops, which is why the method waters mixed pot sizes so well. Problems come from pots standing in a puddle rather than on a damp mat, which is what happens on an unlevel bench. If the media is waterlogged, the bench falls towards that corner.

+ Can I use an old towel or fleece instead of proper matting?

People do, and it partly works. Purpose-made matting is engineered for consistent capillary rise and resists rotting, which household fabric is not. If you improvise, expect uneven wetting and expect to replace it often. Given how cheap wicking trays are for cell-tray work, improvised matting is usually solving a problem that a tray solves better.

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