Snow load is quoted in pounds per square foot of roof area, and it is the most misunderstood number on a greenhouse specification sheet, because snow depth and snow weight are only loosely related. Fresh light powder weighs roughly 0.9 pounds per square foot per inch of depth. Settled snow weighs about 1.5. Wet snow or partly thawed snow weighs about 3, and ice weighs about 5.
That range is why the same 24 inches of snow either sits harmlessly on a roof or collapses it. A structure rated to 20 pounds per square foot carries about 22 inches of powder, 13 inches of settled snow, or 7 inches of wet snow. The dangerous condition is not a blizzard, it is 6 inches of snow followed by rain.
| Rating | Light dry powder | Settled snow | Wet snow | Snow then rain |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10 psf | 11 in | 7 in | 3 in | Under 3 in |
| 15 psf | 17 in | 10 in | 5 in | 4 in |
| 20 psf | 22 in | 13 in | 7 in | 5 in |
| 25 psf | 28 in | 17 in | 8 in | 6 in |
| 30 psf | 33 in | 20 in | 10 in | 7 in |
| 40 psf | 44 in | 27 in | 13 in | 10 in |
| 50 psf | 56 in | 33 in | 17 in | 12 in |
What a load rating does not promise
Every published rating carries assumptions, and hobby greenhouse ratings carry more than most. Four of them matter.
- It assumes the structure is fully and correctly assembled. Every bolt tightened, every brace fitted, every panel in its channel. A frame missing its diagonal braces because they seemed optional during assembly has a fraction of its rated capacity.
- It assumes correct anchoring to a rigid base. A greenhouse resting on soft ground with the supplied pegs is not anchored, and a frame that can move cannot develop its rated strength.
- It assumes uniform loading. Snow drifts. A lee slope beside a fence or a house wall can carry twice the average depth, so a roof at half its rated average can be locally overloaded.
- It does not usually include the two loads acting together. Wind pressure on a snow-laden roof is the combination that actually fails structures, and hobby ratings are generally quoted separately for each.
| Structure | Typical snow rating | Typical wind rating | Practical weak point |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fabric-covered low tunnel | Not rated, collapses under any accumulation | 20 to 30 mph | The cover tears at the pin points before the hoops fail. |
| Fiberglass hoop tunnel over a bed | Not rated | 25 to 35 mph | Hoops flatten and stay flattened. Treat as a frost cover only. |
| Steel-frame film tunnel, walk-in | 5 to 15 psf, if braced | 35 to 50 mph | The film cover at the door frame, and the anchoring. |
| Budget polycarbonate kit, light frame | 10 to 20 psf | 35 to 45 mph | Panels walking out of their channels once the frame racks. |
| Quality polycarbonate kit, heavier frame | 20 to 30 psf | 50 to 65 mph | Door hardware, then the anchoring. |
| Timber-framed greenhouse | 25 to 40 psf | 55 to 70 mph | Rot at the sill plate where it meets the ground. |
| Aluminum-framed glass greenhouse | 15 to 25 psf | 50 to 65 mph | Glass panes lifting out of their clips in uplift. |
| Cold frame with polycarbonate lid | Effectively unlimited at that span | Depends entirely on ballast | The lid blowing open and tearing its hinges off. |
Roof pitch does more for snow than the rating does
A steeper roof sheds snow rather than accumulating it, and the effect is large. Below about a 20 degree pitch, snow sits. Between 25 and 30 degrees, it sheds partially once the surface warms. Above roughly 35 degrees, it sheds readily. Most hobby greenhouse roofs sit between 25 and 35 degrees, which is why they cope with more snow than their rating suggests in a climate where daytime temperatures rise above freezing, and cope with much less where they do not.
The material matters too. Snow slides off glass and off smooth polycarbonate far more readily than off textured or dirty surfaces, and a roof that has been shaded by a tree all winter holds snow that a sunlit roof would have shed. This is one more reason siting matters, covered in siting and orientation.
Wind: uplift is the failure, not pressure
A greenhouse rarely fails by being pushed over. It fails by being lifted. Wind flowing over a curved or pitched roof generates negative pressure above it, exactly as it does over an aircraft wing, and the resulting uplift acts on the whole roof area at once. On a 6 by 8 house that is roughly 60 square feet of roof, and at 50 miles per hour the uplift can exceed several hundred pounds.
Which means anchoring is the whole game, and it must resist upward force rather than sideways force. Screw-in earth anchors such as Ciyivak 18 in Screw-In Ground Anchor Kit with Straps work because they develop resistance against the soil above the helix. Pegs pushed into soft ground pull straight out. The other essential is to keep the door shut in wind: an open door pressurizes the interior and adds internal pressure to external uplift, which is why so many failures happen on the day someone left it propped open.
Standing up to load
The full anchoring method is in anchoring a greenhouse against wind, the load detail in snow and wind load, and the frame quality question in best polycarbonate greenhouses.