Greenhouse heater sizing is one calculation, and almost every rule of thumb you will find online gets it wrong in the same way: by using floor area. Heat leaves through the glazing, not through the floor, and a long narrow house has substantially more glazed surface than a square one of identical floor area. Use the envelope.
The formula is the standard conduction form. BTU per hour equals glazed surface area in square feet, multiplied by the glazing U-factor, multiplied by the temperature difference in degrees Fahrenheit that you want to maintain. An infiltration allowance of 1.1 for a new tight structure, or up to 1.25 for an older film house with loose doors, accounts for air leaking through gaps.
The temperature difference is the part people get wrong second. It is not the difference between your target and the average winter temperature. It is the difference between your target and the coldest night you intend to protect against. If you want 45 degrees Fahrenheit inside and your design low is 5 degrees, your differential is 40, not 20.
| Size | Floor | Envelope sq ft | 20 degF diff | 30 degF diff | 40 degF diff | 50 degF diff |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4 x 6 ft | 24 sq ft | 158 | 2,300 | 3,400 | 4,500 | 5,700 |
| 6 x 4 ft | 24 sq ft | 156 | 2,200 | 3,400 | 4,500 | 5,600 |
| 6 x 6 ft | 36 sq ft | 194 | 2,800 | 4,200 | 5,500 | 6,900 |
| 6 x 8 ft | 48 sq ft | 231 | 3,300 | 5,000 | 6,600 | 8,300 |
| 6 x 10 ft | 60 sq ft | 269 | 3,800 | 5,800 | 7,700 | 9,600 |
| 8 x 8 ft | 64 sq ft | 271 | 3,900 | 5,800 | 7,800 | 9,700 |
| 8 x 10 ft | 80 sq ft | 312 | 4,500 | 6,700 | 8,900 | 11,200 |
| 8 x 12 ft | 96 sq ft | 353 | 5,100 | 7,600 | 10,100 | 12,600 |
| 10 x 12 ft | 120 sq ft | 401 | 5,700 | 8,600 | 11,500 | 14,300 |
| 10 x 16 ft | 160 sq ft | 490 | 7,000 | 10,500 | 14,000 | 17,500 |
| 10 x 18 ft | 180 sq ft | 534 | 7,600 | 11,500 | 15,300 | 19,100 |
| 12 x 20 ft | 240 sq ft | 642 | 9,200 | 13,800 | 18,400 | 23,000 |
What can a 1500 W heater actually hold?
A standard 120 volt circuit supports a 1500 watt heater and no more, which is 5,120 BTU per hour. Reading that figure across the chart above tells you the honest limit of single-circuit electric heating: a 6 by 6 house at a 30 degree differential, a 6 by 8 at about 25 degrees, an 8 by 10 at barely 15. The Bio Green Palma 1500 W Greenhouse Heater with Digital Thermostat is the purpose-built version of that heater, with a splash-resistant body and a digital thermostat, and it is the correct choice right up to the point where the arithmetic says it is not enough.
Past that limit there are three honest options and one dishonest one. The honest ones: run a 240 volt circuit and fit a heater like the Bio Green Phoenix 2.8 kW 240 V Greenhouse Heater at 9,553 BTU per hour, insulate the envelope so the required output drops below the limit, or lower the target temperature to frost protection rather than growing warmth. The dishonest one is plugging in a second 1500 W heater on the same circuit, which trips the breaker on the first cold night, usually at 3 am.
How glazing changes the answer
The chart above assumes 4 mm twin-wall polycarbonate, which is what most hobby kits ship with. Better or worse glazing scales every figure in the table by the ratio of U-factors. Multiply by 1.77 for 6 mil single film, by 1.62 for single glass, by 0.89 for 6 mm twin-wall, by 0.74 for 8 mm triple-wall.
| Glazing | U-factor | BTU per hour | Electric equivalent |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single polyethylene film, 6 mil | 1.15 | 17,900 | 5,250 W |
| Double polyethylene film, inflated | 0.59 | 9,200 | 2,700 W |
| Single horticultural glass, 3 mm | 1.05 | 16,300 | 4,800 W |
| Double insulated glass unit | 0.50 | 7,800 | 2,300 W |
| Corrugated single-wall polycarbonate, 0.8 mm | 1.20 | 18,600 | 5,450 W |
| Twin-wall polycarbonate, 4 mm | 0.65 | 10,100 | 2,950 W |
| Twin-wall polycarbonate, 6 mm | 0.58 | 9,000 | 2,650 W |
| Twin-wall polycarbonate, 8 mm | 0.53 | 8,200 | 2,400 W |
| Triple-wall polycarbonate, 8 mm | 0.48 | 7,500 | 2,200 W |
| Five-wall polycarbonate, 16 mm | 0.40 | 6,200 | 1,800 W |
| Double-wall acrylic, 16 mm | 0.50 | 7,800 | 2,300 W |
| Fiberglass reinforced panel | 1.20 | 18,600 | 5,450 W |
Reducing the number before you buy the heater
Insulation is almost always cheaper per BTU saved than heat is per BTU supplied, and it goes on working for free every night thereafter. Three measures, in the order they pay back. First, reflective bubble insulation on the north wall and any knee wall: those surfaces contribute heat loss and almost no useful light, so insulating them is close to free. Second, seal the door. A hobby greenhouse door with a 6 mm gap around three sides leaks roughly as much heat as a missing panel. Third, thermal mass.
Thermal mass does not reduce total heat loss, it flattens the curve. Water stores about 8.34 BTU per gallon per degree Fahrenheit, so two 55 gallon barrels along the north wall hold roughly 920 BTU for every degree they swing. Painted black and placed where winter sun falls on them, they absorb during the day and release overnight, typically lifting the pre-dawn minimum by several degrees at zero running cost. The full treatment is in passive solar and thermal mass.
Heating equipment sized to the chart
Converting BTU to a heater you can actually buy
Heaters are sold in three different units and the conversions are worth memorizing. Electric heaters are rated in watts, and one watt is 3.412 BTU per hour, so 1500 W is 5,120 BTU per hour and a 2.8 kW unit is 9,553. Gas heaters are rated directly in BTU per hour, but check whether the figure is input or output: a vented gas heater at 80 percent efficiency with an 11,000 BTU input delivers about 8,800 BTU of usable heat. Paraffin and kerosene heaters are usually rated in BTU as well, and their combustion products, including a substantial amount of water vapor, all end up inside the house.
| Heater | Electrical | BTU per hour | Circuit needed | Holds a 6 x 8 house at |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small oil-filled radiator | 700 W | 2,388 | 120 V, 15 A | about 11 degF above outside |
| Standard greenhouse fan heater | 1,500 W | 5,118 | 120 V, 15 A dedicated | about 24 degF above outside |
| Two 1,500 W units | 3,000 W | 10,236 | 120 V, 30 A or two circuits | about 48 degF above outside |
| 240 V greenhouse heater | 2,800 W | 9,554 | 240 V, 20 A | about 44 degF above outside |
| Larger 240 V unit | 4,000 W | 13,648 | 240 V, 30 A | about 63 degF above outside |
| Direct-vent propane wall heater | Fan only | 11,000 input, about 8,800 output | 120 V for the fan | about 41 degF above outside |
Why you should not oversize the heater
The instinct is to buy the next size up for safety, and with greenhouse heating that instinct costs you twice. An oversized heater short-cycles: it reaches setpoint quickly, shuts off, and the house cools back through the thermostat deadband within minutes, so the unit spends its life starting and stopping. Fan bearings and relay contacts are what wear out from that, not heating elements.
The horticultural cost is worse. A large heater blasting a small volume creates a hot dry stream in front of it and a cold pocket at the far end, so a house nominally at 50 degrees Fahrenheit has a 70 degree zone by the outlet and a 40 degree zone at the opposite gable. Plants sitting in the airstream dry out and scorch while plants ten feet away are cold. Sizing close to the calculated requirement and adding internal circulation is the better answer than adding output.
Work your own figure rather than reading the nearest row: the heater BTU calculator takes your dimensions, glazing, ridge height, target and design low. Then check the running cost against reality in heating a greenhouse in winter, compare fuel types in electric versus propane, and see the safety requirements in greenhouse electrical and safety.